What temp do you anons solder at? I've been using a weller wlc100 for years, but just upgraded to a pinecil. This thing is like stepping into the future compared to my old weller station, but I have no clue what temp to use since I'd just stick my old one on 4/5. Any recommendations? Also, any recommendations for no clean flux?
I tend to just use 350°C for everything, works fine for leaded and unleaded in my experience. Can vary with the specific solder you're using.
If it crusts over too fast turn the temp down, if it won't wet nicely and keeps solidifying turn it up.
Above 400°C is definitely a meme and almost never a good idea. This is also assuming that your iron is calibrated; if it's not you might have to try anywhere in the range from 315°C to 385°C to find the sweet spot if you don't want to calibrate it.
Re flux: the amtech stuff Rossmann recommends seems decent; but it's expensive. In my experience flux is usually superfluous if you get decent solder with good flux cores in it. I've been buying the expensive multicore solder for years now and only need flux once in a blue moon.
second this
my iron is set to 360°C and I do everything with it, my own circuits with leaded solder, and PCB reworking with industrial pb free. only very rarely, when I need to shield some other parts with kapton, I set it to ~250°C. but then I also use the heatgun.
disagree on solder flux; desoldering a 12pin or what have you connector is just so much easier with a drop of chipquik-smd291
I'll take your point about flux for removing shit like connectors Anon. It's basically required for that.
I guess I mostly just do small full custom builds from scratch for myself, so basically never run into it.
I just turn the iron up to 8/10
It works.
mine doesn't even a setting or even a switch, you just plug it in, no idea
usb-c is a lot better than micro usb
i had 3x solder pens 1 micro usb=trash 1 jack audio=also trash and last one on gas = useless no one is good to use but i will test the usb -c version of it ,
problems:
micro usb = bad connection
jack audio = bad connection
gas version = need to reload systematically
hope usb -c would be better
320c for good quality solder (less risk of damaging things)
350-400c for stubborn solder
>any recommendations for no clean flux?
While it should be no surprise considering you homosexuals cannot even say the word correctly, why are Americans so unaware of rosin core solder? I have never used flux on any of my kits or repairs and never had a problem. Pic related, my last kit build. .22 flux core solder and a tweezer tip iron. More solder than I would have liked because I should have been using .15 but otherwise not a problem.
>, why are Americans so unaware of rosin core solder?
Rosin core solder doesn't contain enough flux for anything except THT on fresh shiny copper or wires.
Yet here I am placing SMD LSI and passives with no fricks to give.
whats the gadget?
https://jyetech.com/dso-062-oscilloscope-diy-kit/
Lives in my road kit for quick and nasty troubleshooting. The pictures here show all the SMD junk populated which must have been a later change, the assembly manual has the SMD layouts and the chapter is still there but the guts have been chopped out. Maybe they got sick of people damaging parts and coming at them for refunds?
Still proud as frick about how square I got the ATmega nailed down tho.
> his soldering iron has chink botnet onboard
> shiggy
I usually shoot for 350f unless the manufacturer specifies something wildly different, but I kick up to 370ish if im anywhere near a fat THT component or a ground plane
> all those identically oriented resistors
This pleases my OCD.
in what way is the pinecil better than the wlc100? i have a wlc100 and haven't had any trouble with it. it's just slow to warm up
I'm in the opposite boat so I can't compare, but the pinecil just werks for me. Warms up in like 10s to 400°C so I can't complain
>What temp do you anons solder at?
320C for leaded.
350C for lead-free.
450C when part is a big chunky shit.
>Also, any recommendations for no clean flux?
Pine rosin. Pine rosin diluted in alcohol or turpentine.
Love me my pinecel.
Anyone ever bothered to use the MCU breakout for anything?
Your old one did it right.
You don't "select a temperature", but you select a setting which works for your particular application.
You generally want to use the lowest temperature that produces good results. Unless you're operating a factory where every board is the same every time, trying to set a specific temperature is futile. Your actual joint temperature will depend on the thermal resistance between the heater and the tip, the size of the tip, the shape ofthe joint, the power of your iron and the thermal mass of the board at that particular spot.
To get good joints, you start at a fairly low set point such as 300 C (this will usually never be anywhere near 300 C in reality), and turn it up if your joints don't turn out well. If the solder melts just fine within a second or two, you can turn it down a bit. If you know you're going to be soldering a ground or power plane with huge thermal mass, you can turn it up very high since you need a lot of energy to dump into the board.
Soldering isn't a numbers game.
i'm quite partial to 342c but i have been known to run at 420c for thicc backplane boards
I am blasting mine at max temp always. Don't even know how much it is. I could look at the display and check, but just don't give a frick.
I just got a fancy new adjustable temp soldering iron for working on PCBs and I can't do anything with it. It gets hot, but it won't melt the solder. Even cranked up to the maximum, it's obvious that it's extremely hot, but it still won't melt solder. Meanwhile my cheap fixed temperature one running 40% lower can melt it easily. What's the deal?
Real men solders without temp control and only needs pic related
adjustable temp control is definitely a massive meme. i have literally never ever set my iron to any temperature other than "mmm-time-to-do-some-soldering"-degrees-C.
the high end metcal ones do away with it
It depends on the solder. You have to check the melting temperature on the thecnical sheet.
But if your using a no name solder you can gradually increase it until it starts melting.
380C, 400C if I need to desolder some lead free shit